The bay has heaved and shuddered as the swell from storms thousands of kilometres away has released its pent up energy on our sandy beaches.
Joy hides deep inside the straddling of a block of fibreglass covered foam in a violent sea. Surrounded by endless ocean, looked down upon by mountain vistas, comforted by endless beaches. Pure freedom! Whales and otters, seals and dolphins, even sting rays make interesting companions. My crew, whether at my side or seeking waves down the point, are one with me in pursuit of that momentary high. A bond forged in adversity and filled with companionship.
I am humbled by the surf. Each wave has a lesson for me; a lesson of patience, or courage, or a deeper belief in God. The lessons are tough, and wrong answers are punished. I am so small and yet I am here, laughing, thrilled, and hungry for more.
Sometimes, very rarely; I swoop, glide, and fly.
And in that instant, Mother Nature takes hold of my heart in her bountiful hands, and loves me!
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