Bigger and better

What an afternoon!

I caught the biggest wave of my life! Absolutely incredible! There was swell in our bay on Friday, the offshore was stiff to heavy, and we were at our favourite surf break. Out way past backline, I waited for the set. Rather a silly thing to do when the normal waves were BIG enough. Then a soldier marched out of the horizon. I swallowed, told myself to breathe, and paddled like a man possessed. The offshore gusted up the face of the wave spewing forth clouds of water into my face. With my eyes closed, I gambled that I had actually caught this wave, and jumped to my feet. For a while it felt like I was slipping sideways down the side of the wave, almost like I was side slipping on a snowboard. Luckily for me, I still could hardly see, and yet somehow managed to dig in the rail of my surfboard, feel my stomach fall to my feet, the wind in my hair, and the absolute freedom of riding a bucking monolith of surging water. Seconds and a hundred meters later, I exited the wave before it thundered into splintered oxygen. A mate later told me that it was one of the most insane take offs he had seen, with a heavy wave curling over my head as I dropped into this deep pit. So, it had been better than I had thought! Oh boy!

Three hours and many spectacular crashes later, I wearily paddled my board to the shore. Our local surf break is called Paranoia for many good reasons. One of them being the rocks that line the shore! Using my right leg as an anchor by bashing it on a rock, I managed to exit sans grace. As I limped out of the sea, realisation struck me that me less than perfect surfing at the end of the session was due in part to my foot being completely numb with cold. I suppose 14 degree water will do that to one!

I turned and looked at the break. Smiled! Shook my head! And sighed with satisfaction!