A Holiday in Sudan

I have travelled to some interesting countries in Africa, but these last two weeks are worthy of some more detailed descriptions. I have divided up this post so as not to bore you to death!

When I think of Sudan, I think of Darfur and their humanitarian crisis. Millions of displaced people fleeing blood thirsty rebels fighting battles because fighting is what they do. Perhaps you think of the recent International Court of Justice indictment against President Omar al-Bashir for genocide or hot dusty deserts and searing heat.

My arrival in Southern Sudan was a revelation. Hot, oh yeah, but lush and green instead of windblown sand. Politically the country of Sudan consists of two countries; Northern and Southern Sudan, each with their own governments. In 2011, Southern Sudan will hold a referendum to decide on whether they want to become their own separate country or not. Little doubt that Southern Sudan is here to stay!

Up until 2004, the North and the South had been at war. My simplistic understanding of the war is that the local Sudanese were tired of their Arab Muslim masters and sent them packing to the north. The real Sudanese are easy to spot as they are tall, with pronounced cheekbones and an almost ebony complexion. Many proudly display their tribal markings on their foreheads, which are essentially patterned scars. Southern Sudan, though, is a mix of many cultures including Ugandan’s, Eritrean’s, and Ethiopian’s. And then of course there are the countless aid workers from the fabled West!

In stark contrast to my experience in Nigeria, where the white man represented the rape and pillage of their society, here the white man, and woman, is associated with aid and understanding. It is a society still recovering from many years of war, so it is simple and scarred. Yet people seem to be genuinely pleased to be free and developing on their own.

There are very few brick and mortar buildings in the capital city, Juba, and a building taller than a single story is a rare sight indeed. The more cynical point them out as residences of government ministers! Traditional housing consisting of a stick frame coated with clay and mud, and finished with a thatched roof. They can be found intermingled with tin roof structures. Sadly the misconception that the iron box is progress just does not work for me...

There is zero industry within the entire country. Everything that can be found here has been imported, another by product of war! The company that imported me for almost two weeks is one of the first companies in the country to manufacture a product!

More tomorrow with some pictures (I hope)...