My Monday mornings always start with a surf with a good mate of mine and yesterday was no different. Although this time some of my old friends ganged up on me and gave me a shiner!!! Nice!
The waves were small so we decided to take out nine foot long boards. I caught a wonderful little wave, surfed it, and fell off near the beach. I took my time surfacing as one never knows what your board may be doing in the sea above you. I opened my eyes and saw my board right in front of my face. I was thinking that all was good until my eye stopped the board’s unnoticed rapid movement towards me.
It was not the hardest blow I have ever taken but it did hurt. I remember considering if I should even bother to tell my mate about my stupid bump as I paddled out backline. He took one look at me and was a little concerned considering my face was covered in blood. The 3 cm cut under my eye had been doing a great job at leaking profusely. After a bit of thought about sharks and blood in the water versus the benefits of cold water on wounds, the only reasonable option was to continue surfing!!
Another chap in the water asked me why I have been getting hurt so often lately? Good question. With only a twisted ankle & wrist on the half pipe, a badly bruised the bone in my forearm (tossed by a BIG wave), and now my face... All in the last week????
The answer came to me a little later in our surf. I like to push the limits. Normally work would keep me fully busy and occupied. And yes, that would be place in which I really push. Now, I am pushing hard in other aspects of my life, like surfing and skating. The only problem is that when you push, sometimes you fall. On the upside, sometimes you really start to pull off some really cool moves .My surfing and skating has never been better!!
Not sure how much longer my body can push and still last the distance. Perhaps it is time I did some work!!!
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