I need a job to pay for the second interesting event this weekend. Take a look at this picture of me surfing. Please note that all photos are curtesy of the amazing and incerdible Steve Clapham!

Things seem to be in control apart from my ape like stance! This is just a wave to be ridden like any other....

On this next photograph, I have indicated the little problem that was soon to rear its ugly head. Rocks under the wave caused a little suck up just ahead of me. That suck up created a step in the wave, just over a meter in height. I was probably thinking about why my knuckles were not dragging in the water and that I would need to perhaps work on a more ape like stance, or something!

And the net result =

Sadly, it was not my board as I had injured mine about 2 weeks ago but a board I borrowed from a friend. The only thing he said to me when he loaned it to me was, “don’t break it as I need it for my Indonesia trip next month!” Oops!

Luckily for him, it will fit neatly into his suitcase now!