This morning while pounding the tar back into shape, surfing was very far from my mind. That is unusual as I often find myself day dreaming about these perfect waves and my perfect form as I carve them into bits. The joy about day dreams is that they are perfectly acceptable no matter how far from reality they may be. Nope, instead I focussed on smiling and complimenting my breathing like any good person would do. “That was a great breath, take another one, and another one”.....
It was just after a welcome shower that I received a text from a friend of mine, inquiring if I was as keen as him to indulge in surfing some real waves. And so I found myself in the sea surfing little waves on a nine foot long board having a glorious time. I have never had the opportunity to surf this kind of board before and this was a fantastic and fun learning experience. The real joy was there were just a handful of guys and a girl in a very calm sea simply enjoying life. And it was that simple.
The question that I get asked a lot these days is “how is the surfing?” I find it difficult to answer as I have spent so much of this wonderful time of mine on so many other activities that I have always wanted to do. I have actually not surfed very much at all. Perhaps I just write about it now with more passion.
This morning, this handful of strangers were all in the water rooting for each other. Something that does not happen too often. I certainly walked away feeling revived in body and spirit. I also walked away with a little gift, an appreciation for how blessed and privileged I am.
It is strange to think that after a lifetime spent focussed on work, I am now a pilgrim in that same life. Every day I try and take all of the opportunities that present themselves. I have some serious long term goals that guide my choices but I still have this surreal feeling of being led somewhere. I am already in a place I could never have daydreamed about. I think it has come about through being open to opportunity, having a better understanding of myself and feeling life for the first time. It is not my daydream of perfectly carved waves but something so much better. It is a place filled with love and joy and life.
Deep within me somewhere, it is all right!
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